What are the benefits of kojic acid?
Kojic acid is most useful in evening out skin tone. Heredia recommends it to treat inflammatory hyperpigmentation left behind after acne and ingrown hairs, sunspots, and certain forms of melasma.
“One thing I always like to clarify is that kojic acid doesn’t “bleach” the skin,” says Heredia. “Instead, it helps regulate excess pigment production. It’s treating existing discoloration to gradually fade while preventing the formation of new dark spots.”
How do I use kojic acid?
Kojic acid can be used on both the face and body, making it a versatile ingredient. It’s particularly useful for the neck, chest, and underarms, among other affected areas.
However, those with very sensitive skin, active eczema, or compromised skin barriers should use caution as the ingredient may further contribute to redness or irritation.
Additionally, Heredia stresses that SPF is crucial when using products with kojic acid. Without sunscreen, “you’re essentially trying to empty a bathtub while the faucet is still running,” Heredia says.
She also advises against layering too many active ingredients like retinol and other actives as “overdoing it can damage the skin barrier and actually worsen inflammation, which may ultimately contribute to more pigmentation, especially in deeper skin tones.”